High up in the Pamir Mountains, surrounded by peaks as high as 6000 meters, lies Khorugh. Khorugh is the capital of Gorno-Badakhshan, an autonomous province within Tajikistan. At the entrance to a large weekly market on the border to Afghanistan, Matluba Mokburashoiyeva sells deep-fried belyashi. The small yeast dough cakes are filled with a mixture of onions, meat and hot spices.