Remodeling Afghan identity through fashion

In the Western world, traditional Afghan clothing is often associated with war - images of Islamist fighters donning turbans, drooping cloaks. But the attire is basically part of the rich Afghan culture. In his latest Amsterdam show, "Rise from the Ashes," Afghan-Dutch designer Nawed Elias attempts to alter the Western perception of Afghanistan.

Elias has showcased his designs in many countries around the world. His label "Zazai" pays tribute to his love for his home nation and his cultural roots.

Elias (front) was born in Afghanistan in 1993. At the time, a deadly civil war had already begun in the country, with different groups of mujahideen (Islamic warriors) vying for control over Kabul following the Soviet withdrawal from the country. Elias vividly remembers the sounds and images of that war, and these memories shape his designs.

Inspired by various regions of Afghanistan, Zazai's designs, colors and patterns are a blend of modernity and tradition. They carry a distinct signature style that is influenced by Western culture.

Before his models walk the runway, Elias makes sure that all details are taken care of. Elias works meticulously with every model individually to prepare them for the show – to present his vision to his audience in the best possible manner.

Elias' fashion shows are more than just models doing a catwalk on the ramp. For instance, the choreography for his "Rise from the Ashes" show carefully depicts the history of Afghanistan, a country ravaged by war and bomb attacks. In this picture, he shows an image of Afghanistan that is chained to violence.

The Afghan-Dutch designer believes that youth are the future of Afghanistan. "I want to give youngsters an alternative view," he told DW. "Young Afghans shouldn't blindly follow their leaders," he added. In this picture, a model is carrying a young child, through whom Elias wants to present a ray of hope.

Elias has been living abroad for a long period of time, but he has strong political views about Afghanistan. He criticizes Afghan politics, warlords and corruption through his work. "Of course I am political. And I'm not shy to express my political views through my work," he said.