Japan: Mimi Ferments deli

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03:28 mins.
14.06.2019

Planet Berlin: Markus Shimizu

In his Mimi Ferments store in Moabit, Markus Shimizu uses fermentation to create ingredients for fine Japanese cuisine.

When you enter Markus Shimizu's shop in Moabit's Stephankiez district, you are first struck by a unique smell – something slightly sour and wholly indefinable. "Most of my customers like it," says Markus Shimizu, who experiments with fermentation at his small shop. 

Here, the floor is covered with pallets supporting massive wooden barrels filled with aging artisan soy sauce. The process can take between three months and three years to complete. The longer the sauce ages, the darker and more aromatic it becomes. Markus Shimizu explains that it makes sense to store the barrels on the ground since soy sauces have to be stirred so frequently. Other fermented foods such as the infamous nattō, which is made of fermented soy beans, is stored on shelves along the walls. 

Fermentation, the practice of preserving foods through the activity of microorganisms, enjoys a long tradition in Japan. The most important ingredient is kōji, a fungus that, when introduced to the steamed and softened substrate, induces enzymatic changes. This process can also be used to make miso paste, rice vinegar, and even sake. "Most of our products are vegetarian or even vegan," shares Markus Shimizu, "but I like to experiment with meat, eggs, and cheese, too."

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A new art

Initially, fermentation was just a hobby for Markus Shimizu, who was born in Tokyo as the son of a Japanese father and a German mother. Markus Shimizu studied art in Holland and Berlin, and his scholarships allowed him to spend a lot of time traveling – to India and Brazil, among other places. But when his friends, and friends of friends, started asking about his fermented creations, he organized a miso workshop followed by his first cooking course. That's when he started making contacts with chefs and restaurants.

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Planet Berlin: Food for the ages

Allergic reaction

Markus Shimizu was born in the Japanese capital, Tokyo. His Japanese father had fallen in love with a German woman, and Shimizu spent his first years in Japan before the family moved to the Netherlands. He began as a teenager to experiment with fermented foods that are said to combat allergies.

Planet Berlin: Food for the ages

Special fermentation

Since fermented foods can reduce allergic reactions, Markus Shimizu, an allergy sufferer, tried different fermentation methods with the help of microorganisms. In his shop, opened in 2018, there is a sauna-like apparatus that promotes the fermentation process by finely controlling heat and humidity.

Planet Berlin: Food for the ages

Gastronomic trendsetter

Tempeh, miso, soy sauce: Mimi Ferment's clients include world-class restaurants, as well as individual customers passing by the Stephan Kiez store in Moabit. Fermented foods, with ancient Japanese origins, are one of the latest trends to influence the contemporary foodie movement.

Planet Berlin: Food for the ages

Coming of age

In large oak barrels, aging artisanal soy sauce continues to transform into a prized delicacy. It takes up to three years to mature and has to be stirred regularly, which is why the barrels are kept on the floor of the small shop. As a rule of thumb, the darker the sauce, the more intense the taste.

At his own shop, which opened its doors in 2018, he sells small quantities of his products packaged in bottles and jars. "A lot of my customers are creative professionals," says Markus Shimizu, "and some are even top chefs." They like to use his creations to produce unique foods – ones that don't necessarily conform to Asian traditions. Markus Shimizu is always designing and testing new and challenging products for his clients. He just loves to experiment. So what happened to his art? "This is my art now," Markus Shimizu answers with a laugh.

Author: Ludwig Peters

MIMI FERMENTS
Stephanstr. 24
10559 Berlin-Moabit

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